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Let's Talk About Vaccines - Everyone Else Is!

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There is no universal protocol for canine vaccination schedules. Many vets recommend more vaccinations than most dogs require to be protected from contagious diseases. A lot of vets use the vaccination schedule they receive with the vaccinations they buy from drug companies. Vets are now realizing to trust vaccine makers may not be the best thing to do. Vaccine makers are in the business of selling vaccines.

There are a number of things pet owners can do to make sure their dogs are protected against contagious diseases without overvaccinating. You need to learn about the diseases the vaccines defend your dog against. Before you allow your vet to vaccinated, ask your vet about the disease it prevents. What is its incidence? How is it transmitted? Is it more prevalent in your particular area? Ask your vet is the disease treatable, and if so, how many dogs recover? If you find out the disease kills many dogs who get it and the virus is everywhere, you should probably authorize your vet to vaccinate your dog against that disease. If you find out a particular disease is very prevalent in your area, you should probably authorize your vet to vaccinate your dog against that disease in addition to other appropriate vaccines.

A list of vaccines for dogs that most experts agree puppies and dogs should be protected against - diseases that are highly contagious and potentially fatal would include:

Canine Parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2) Canine distemper virus (CDV) Canine adenovirus type 2 (CAV-2) Rabies virus (RV)

If you are concerned about overvaccination be sure to have your puppies vaccinated against distemper, parvo, and adenovirus, not before six weeks, and at least once after the age of 12 weeks, and a rabies vaccine given after 16 weeks. About two weeks after the last vaccination with distemper, parvo, and adenovirus, ask for a vaccine titer test to see if your puppy has been successfully immunized.

Other vaccine tips you need to remember:

Use vaccine titer tests to see if your dog is adequately immunized against the diseases that most experts aggree puppies and dogs should be protected against. These are diseases that are highly contagious and potentially fatal.

Don't use low-cost clinics for your dog's vaccinations (unless the clinic is operated by a professional you know and trust). Instead make a relationship with a vet who will take time with you, who will ask your about your dog's health history, answer your questions about the benefits and risks of various vaccines and recommend an individualized vaccination schedule for your dog that takes into consideration his lifestyle and environment.

Take your dog to the vet at least once a year.

Do not vaccinate dogs who suffer from chronic or acute health problems, running a high temperaturem, or who have a history of vaccine reactions. Do not vacciante elderly dogs just because if your dog has been vaccinated many times in the younger years, he is probably immunized against disease as much as he can be.

This article is free to publish with the resource box.

Connie Limon I raise Shih Tzu puppies for sale bred from champion bloodlines in a variety of colors. We have the AKC small standard, imperial and teacups. Visit us at http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com and http://shihtzuarticles.com


Your Dog and Your Furniture

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Some dog owners believe that a dog is a dog, and that his place is on the floor exclusively. Some feel that he is a member of the family, and that he should be allowed up on chairs or sofas if he feels like it. And there are attitudes in between that may dictate permission for him to get up on one "favorite chair." Generally the split is between country and city, with country dogs being relegated to the floor and city dogs having the run of the place.

If he is going to be strictly a floor dog, then he should never be allowed up on any piece of furniture, right from the start. Being up on the couch with you or solo hold little distinction for him and it will only confuse him later if you deny him the privilege. When he is little, he won't be able to negotiate the height, so there is no problem with him climbing up.

As he grows and investigates, he will try to climb up just to see what is there. Push him off gently and tell him "no" a few times and he will get the idea. Later he may try to occupy it while you are out of the house. An easy solution to train him is a few light mousetraps covered with a sheet or newspaper set near the back of the cushion. The trap can't hurt him and the snapping noise will solve the problem.

If you decide that he is going to be a full member of the household with all privileges, the problems are only those of dirt and reactions. As for dirt, he should be trained to wait at the door for a quick cleaning with an old rag after he has been out of doors. By the time he is old enough to climb onto chairs easily he will be old enough to have learned the "sit and stay" and there ends the problem.

As far as reactions go, this is really something between you and your friends. Somewhat fastidious friends who come to visit may find dogs on furniture disagreeable, particularly if the dog has to be shooed off of the chair they are about to sit in. If he is a chair sitter in your house, he may try to be one when he goes visiting with you. So set up a rigid rule for him - okay at home, forbidden elsewhere, and don't make exceptions and he won't be likely to be confused.

Randy Jones and his partner Brent Jones have been in the pet industry for a long time. Recently they formed Joncopets.com. On the site, customers can read articles about anything pets as well as shop for the latest dog collars and more for their best friend. Feel free to check out the site at http://www.joncopets.com


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